Where is the white bloom?

White powder, crust or a chalky tide mark on masonry. Answer what you can see. The answer updates as you go.

Surface it appears onPick the closest match
Highest point of the bloom above groundIn millimetres. A brick course is about 86mm.

History

Whether it comes back is the single strongest signal. It separates a cosmetic bloom from a live moisture path.

Does it come back after cleaning?
Age of the masonry

Where the water could be coming from

The damp proof course is the black plastic strip in the mortar, usually two brick courses above ground level.

Is there a garden bed or paving above the damp proof course?Soil or concrete piled higher than that black strip bridges it
Does the wall back onto soil?A retained garden, a cut into a slope, or a neighbour's higher yard
Does the deposit dissolve in water?Wet a corner. True efflorescence salt dissolves and disappears. A hard crust that stays is lime or calcite.
Most likely cause
Rising damp

Can I just paint over it?

How each signal scored, and how the three look alike conditions ranked.

Book a damp and masonry inspection Call 1300 044 206

What to do, in order

    What this assessment assumes
    • Efflorescence is a salt deposit left behind when water moves through masonry and evaporates at the face. The salt is the symptom, the water path is the fault.
    • New masonry carries its own soluble salts. Blooming that settles within about 12 months and does not return after one clean is cosmetic.
    • Salt banding between roughly 300mm and 900mm above ground, with a hard upper tide mark, is the classic rising damp signature in Melbourne brickwork.
    • A retaining wall, slab, paving or tiled area is not assessed for rising damp. Those hold a permanent water source on the hidden face, so recurring bloom there is a moisture path, not rising damp.
    • Dry brushing comes first because wetting a salt bloom drives it back into the masonry and it returns.
    • Acidic efflorescence removers are dilute hydrochloric or phosphoric acid. Pre wet, apply, neutralise and rinse. They will etch glazed tiles, burn plants and mark aluminium.
    • Never coat a wall that has a live moisture source with a non breathable membrane. Trapped moisture blisters the film and can push render off the substrate.
    • Rising damp is a building repair, not a painting job. A registered builder handles damp proof course injection or replacement, and ground level correction.
    • This is a guide from what you can see. It does not replace a moisture meter reading or a builder's inspection.
    Most likely cause
    Rising damp
    Book an inspection